Logistilla Nerello Mascalese, Luna Gaia 2023

Mount Etna's volcanic soils, altitude and climate are great for a grape like Nerello Mascalese, helping to intensify its natural minerality and crisp acidity. It's sometimes held up against Pinot Noir as a benchmark and its delicacy and elegance certainly bear that out. But here the volcanic terroir brings a certain earthy, smoky touch all of its own and, being unoaked, it shows a bright wild strawberry and cherry tartness side to its fruit character. Refined - certainly, but with a slight rugged edge.

Great lightly chilled, on its own or with oily fish and charcuterie - the bright acidity cuts through beautifully.

Luna Gaia is the well-respected co-operative Cantina Orsogna's, foray into Sicilian biodynamic wines. They've partnered with BioGaia, a collective of passionate farmers working vineyards of old bush vines whose roots delving deep into the island's volcanic soils. Their labels might be eye-catching and a bit gaudy, but fear not the wines within are made to a consistently high standard.