Californian Comparisons
Big & rich America vs elegant & restrained Old World
A bit of a cliché, but does it still hold true?
It's a comparison that works for many things transatlantic, but here, of course, we're sticking strictly to wine. In sunny California, the warm climate means reliably ripe fruit, and winemakers there have always had a soft spot for oak, so you get full-bodied wines with rich, plush fruit along with a creamy, buttery texture – that's the stereotype. In Europe, by contrast, things aren't so 'in-your-face' – crisp, citrus minerality and subtle oak character tend to be more the order of the day.
That's the 'broad-brush' characterisation – and it doesn't always hold true – but here we're leaning into accepted wisdom, pairing up three classic Californians that play the part against three of their Old World counterparts. They're all good examples of their type, and if you fancy seeing how they shape up against each other – why not give them a try?
And 10% off these from now until the end of September makes that decision a bit easier.
Viognier - Mendocino to the Languedoc
Cline Cellars Mendocino County Viognier
Singles £21.50 £19.35, Mixed 6 £19.50 £17.55
Fontarèche Viognier, Les Mijanelles
Singles £13.90 £12.50, Mixed 6 £12.90 £11.60
The richness of Viognier is on show in Cline Cellars' North Coast expression, layering honeyed apricot and tropical fruit with a silky, lightly-oaked texture. Les Mijanelles from the Languedoc has all the floral lift and ripe stone fruit you'd expect, too, but its unoaked style keeps things brighter and more vibrant.
Central Valley Zinfandel meets Puglian Primitivo
Ironstone Old Vine Zinfandel
Singles £20.90 £18.80, Mixed 6 £18.90 £17.00
A Mano Primitivo di Puglia
Singles £17.50 £15.75, Mixed 6 £15.50 £13.95
Same grape, different names, different homes – Zinfandel from California, Primitivo from Puglia. Both are bold, flavoursome wines that wear that intensity proudly, but the Zinfandel goes all in on ripeness and richness, while the Primitivo keeps a little in reserve with some fresher, spicier notes. No holds barred from the USA, a bit more restraint from the Old World.
Chardonnay - North Coast California and Mâconnais Burgundy
Shannon Ridge Chardonnay, Lake County
Singles £21.50 £19.35, Mixed 6 £19.50 £17.55
Mâcon-Charnay-Les-Mâcon 'Lès Piliers', Genetie
Singles £17.90 £16.10, Mixed 6 £15.90 £14.30
Here we've skipped the big, buttery Chardonnays for a brighter, fresher pair. Shannon Ridge gets its structure from high-altitude, volcanic-soil vineyards with just a touch of toasted coconut and cream. The Mâcon finds its richness through lees ageing. Subtle differences maybe, but we'd say the Californian's a touch rounder, the Burgundy a little brighter.
How does California compare to its Old World cousins? These are three pairings to try.