Greiner Spatburgunder 2023

Line this up against a red Burgundy and the contrast is clear. Where Burgundy often trades on perfume and delicacy, this Pinot Noir - labelled Spätburgunder in Germany - leans towards substance, with darker fruit, firmer grip and more weight on the palate. It's still recognisably Pinot Noir, but with a sturdier frame and a slightly more savoury accent. The fruit comes from biodynamically farmed vineyards in the Black Forest, aged partly in oak which adds a subtle layer of spice and roundness to the fruit. The result is fresh, structured and firmly rooted in its place, showing Pinot with more muscle than silk.

Best with roasted duck, mushroom dishes or game birds, where its firmer structure makes a good match for richer flavours.

Weingut Greiner is a family owned estate in the Black Forest, now run by Maximilian Greiner, with a clear focus on organic and biodynamic farming. Originally supplying grapes to the local co-op, the family struck out on their own to take full control of the vineyards and the wines that came from them. The approach is hands-on and sustainability-driven, producing Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and others with freshness and precision at their core. A small estate, but one that has shown it knows exactly what it wants to be.