Volnay Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Jean-Jaques Girard 2020

To get an idea of what differentiates the reds of the Côte de Beaune from the Côte de Nuits, Volnay is a good place to start. Where Nuits-Saint-Georges or Gevrey-Chambertin go for earth, spice and brooding depth, Volnay goes the other way — floral, silky, and light on its feet in a way that few other Burgundian reds are. The vieilles vignes on the label is worth noting — the 65 year old vines don't add weight, rather they sharpen everything up: more aromatic intensity, more precision, a longer finish. 2020 was a warm year, but one that kept its freshness and focus — the fruit is pure and crunchy rather than rich or heavy, and the natural acidity gives the wine a taut, precise quality that'll give this vintage a bit more staying power.

In its prime now but has plenty of life left if you're patient - perfect alongside roast quail in red wine sauce or hare à la royale, where its delicate red fruit and silky elegance can handle the rich, gamey flavours with ease.

The Girards have been making wine in and around Savigny-lès-Beaune since 1529, which gives them a good claim to knowing a fair amount about the area. Jean-Jacques Girard tends around 15 hectares spread across the northern Côte de Beaune — Savigny, Pernand-Vergelesses, Aloxe-Corton and neighbouring communes — with holdings ranging from village level through to Grand Cru. Their reds, as you'd expect in these parts, are the foundation of the range. But since a new winery came on stream in 2014, the whites have stepped up markedly, meaning all of their wines are worth taking seriously.