Vecchia Modena Lambrusco Sorbara, Cleto Chiarli 2025

Lambrusco once languished under the sticky shadow of cheap fizz, but those days are over - thank goodness. Cleto Chiarli, Modena's oldest winery, makes this finely judged example from Sorbara, the most delicate of the Lambrusco grapes. Pale ruby with a gentle froth, it shows tart cherry, raspberry and wild strawberry, with violets and a touch of citrus zest. The palate is dry and bright, carried by brisk acidity and finishing with elegant lightness.

A sharp companion for Emilia Romanga's cured meats and fried snacks, while its taut freshness also flatters seafood.

You can't really talk about Lambrusco without talking about Cleto Chiarli. Back in 1860, Cleto closed his Modena tavern to set up Emilia-Romagna's first dedicated winery, bottling the Lambrusco that had made him popular with diners. From there, the family became inseparable from the region's wine story. Recognition at the 1900 Paris Exposition put Lambrusco on the international map, and Chiarli were later at the forefront of adopting the Charmat method, which gave Lambrusco the consistent sparkle that made it world-famous - and, for a time, infamous. Today the estate is still family-run, with the latest generations working to restore Lambrusco's reputation, producing wines that celebrate its roots while showing just how good it can be.