Tenute Sella 'Orbello' Nebbiolo, Coste della Sesia 2024

This Nebbiolo is from Alto Piemonte – the foothills of the Alps – and swaps the weight and heft of Barolo and Barbaresco for a cooler-edged style – brisk, finely etched and distinctly mineral – with finer tannins and a delicate pale colour. Mostly Nebbiolo with small proportions of Barbera, Vespolina and Cabernet Sauvignon in support, it shows red cherries, cranberries and wild berries, laced with rose, citrus peel and a faint hint of black-tea grip. A spell in seasoned barriques knits it together and brings a touch of spice to complete the picture. This isn’t a Nebbiolo that needs years in the cellar – the fine tannins and crunchy texture make it very appealing in its youth.

Roast pork with fennel, chicken cacciatore or mushroom risotto all work well - savoury, earthy flavours that sit neatly alongside a Nebbiolo that's ready to drink now.

Founded in 1671, Tenute Sella is one of the oldest continuously operating wineries in Italy, based in Alto Piemonte at the foot of the Alps. This cooler northern corner of Piedmont turns out a fresher, more finely drawn style of Nebbiolo - lighter than the Langhe, with plenty of mineral bite. Sella has long focused on this more elegant expression, and under the direction of winemaker Riccardo Giovannini, the estate has seen a something of a resurgence - still very much true to its history, but with a renewed sense of purpose.