Taras Boulba Pale Ale, Brasserie de la Senne

Taras Boulba has something of a cult following, and it's not hard to see why. It looks modest enough - pale, lightly hazy, 4.5% - but the hop character punches well above its weight. Noble hops in dry-hopping give it a distinctly herbal, floral and lightly citrusy aroma, while a biscuity cereal malt base and fruity, spicy Belgian yeast character add depth underneath. The bitterness is assertive for the strength, and the finish is properly dry - this is a beer built around balance and drinkability by a Brussels brewery that's been championing well-hopped ales since before it was fashionable.

Brasserie de la Senne, started up in 2003 by Bernard Leboucq and Yvan De Baets, has had quite an influence on Brussels' indie beer scene. Well before the fashion for noticeably hoppy beers came along, they were crafting bitter, aromatic beers with a purpose. Sticking to traditional methods, they balance character with restraint - no showy gimmicks. And they dabble in barrel-aged and mixed-fermented brews too. Distinctive beers, distinctively Brussels.