Salcheto Vino Nobile di Montelpulciano 2022

Riper and broader than many Chiantis, but not as big and imposing as some Brunellos can be – that’s the concise assessment here. Salcheto’s take captures the essence of what Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is about, and being made from 100% Prugnolo Gentile – the local clone of Sangiovese – is a big part of that. Eighteen months in barrel gives it extra depth without blurring the cherry, plum and savoury notes that define the style. Firmly structured, with polished tannins, dark plum fruit and a touch of leather and spice on the finish, it’s a wine that makes its presence known without ever relying on sheer power.

Drinking well now and over the next five to eight years, this really comes into its own with food. Roast lamb or slow-cooked beef suits its dark fruit, firm tannins and savoury edge, while richer mushroom or aubergine dishes pick up the earthy, spicy side of the wine.

Named after the stream that cuts through their 72-hectare estate below Montepulciano, Salcheto has been shaped by winemaker-partner Michele Manelli. His focus is getting the best out of Prugnolo Gentile, the local clone of Sangiovese in this southern part of Tuscany. In addition, sustainability is built into every part of the place: the winery runs on its own power in an off-grid cellar, tracks its carbon footprint and bottles in lighter glass. In the cellar, a light touch – indigenous yeasts, very low sulphites and clean, accurate flavours – is the guiding principle.