Hurluberlu, Sébastien David 2024

Sébastien David's vineyards sit near the north bank of the Loire in Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, very much Cabernet Franc country. His expression of it - Hurluberlu - made without added sulphur, is light, fresh and unfiltered with a rush of dark berry fruit, a savoury, almost herbal note underneath, and a lively, mouth-watering finish. Just the sort of thing the area's sandy soils are suited for. At a distance the bottle might resemble Coca Cola, but the contents don't - they're the epitome of a well made, very drinkable, natural wine.

Serve slightly chilled to sharpen the fruit. Good with charcuterie or a simple cheese board - its freshness and light tannins cut through nicely.

Sébastien David is a seventeenth-generation Loire valley vigneron, from a family that's worked vines in Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil since 1634. That heritage, though, hasn't made him a traditionalist - in fact quite the reverse. He converted the domaine to organic then biodynamic farming after taking over in 1999, and in 2007 stopped adding sulphur altogether, working instead with native yeast and unconventional vessels like suspended concrete eggs and amphorae. As one of the standard bearers of the Natural Wine movement in France, his reputation rests on more than his own wines - he's built organic and biodynamic networks across the region and helped give French natural wine its first official definition.