Rully Blanc, Domaine Jean-Charles Fagot 2022

Out of all the Côte Chalonnaise villages, Rully has a reputation for being closest in style to Côte de Beaune whites like Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet, and the way Jean-Charles Fagot makes his version certainly plays to that image. It’s a classic, slightly richer take, with spice, hazelnut and toffee hints coming from lees ageing and time in barrel. All the tangy citrus, apples and pears are there, together with some floral hints, making this a complete wine without an excessive price tag.

Great with roast chicken or guinea fowl in a creamy, wine-laced sauce, where the citrus, oak spice and hazelnut notes all find something to latch onto.

As well as being a vigneron, Jean-Charles Fagot wears a few other hats – négociant, restaurateur and drummer – and is a bit of a personality in the Beaune area. A fifth-generation winemaker, he runs his small family domaine in the village of Corpeau in the Côte de Beaune, where he also runs his restaurant, the Auberge du Vieux Vigneron, while still finding time to play in a band with other vignerons and restaurateurs. In contrast to Burgundy’s more traditional image, his way of doing things is more laid-back and relaxed. When it comes to his wines, however, the style is reassuringly classic rather than cutting edge. He’s a man with quite a few strings to his bow, and hands-on in all of them as well.