Carema Riserva 2019

It's Nebbiolo, Jim, but not as we know it. Lighter, fresher, and distinctly mineral, the wines from Carema are a world apart from the bold Barolos and Barbarescos of the Langhe Hills. Sitting at the southern tip of the Valle d'Aosta, this tiny region has been making quality wine for centuries, but with only a few hectares under vine, production is small. Aged for 48 months, including 30 in barrel, this is built to last. Pale garnet in colour, it's all delicate red berries, lavender, leather, and tar, with a soft, balanced palate, refined tannins, and impressive length. An elegant and unique take on what many way say is Italy's greatest grape.

It's good now and will remain so for another 15 years. Things like Roast partridge or guinea fowl bring out its delicate gamey notes, while its finesse and acidity suit mild blue cheese perfectly.

Produttori del Carema is a cooperative that sits in the north of Piedmont in the alpine foothills bordering Aosta. Founded in 1960, originally with less than 12 producers They've always been well known for the quality of their wines and over time and due to their success, their numbers have risen to more than 80. Their speciality is the area's own expression of the Nebbiolo grape which, due to the climate of these parts, has a different character to the more famous offerings of Barolo and Barbaresco. The wines of Carema, only ever made in small quantities, have long had an enviable reputation in their home country and are well worth looking out for.