Matias Morcos, Criolla Chica 2023

Criolla Chica is one of Argentina's oldest grapes and about as far from Malbec as it gets. Thin-skinned and picked for brightness, it comes out a delicate ruby and drinks more like Pinot or Gamay than any Mendoza heavyweight. Flavours are all red berries, sour cherry and pomegranate, carried by lively acidity and the gentlest of tannins. Juicy, chillable and made for sheer drinkability, it shines a light on Argentina's heritage vines through a distinctly modern lens.

A light, fleshy red that's perfect, served slightly chilled, for easy snacking - think charcuterie, good cheese, and some crusty bread.

The young Matias Morcos is on a bit of a crusade. He's breathing life back into the old vines which still make up a good chunk of the vineyards of East Mendoza. This area used to be the heart of Argentina's bulk wine industy. But that is changing with Matias, the third generation in a family business started by Lebanese immigrants back in the 1950s. Luján and Uco Valley might get the hype but East Mendoza is a powerhouse awating a re-awakening. Matias is shifting away from quantity and getting back to quality with the gnarled, historic vines he's inherited. He's fixing up an old winery, making small, characterful batches, and - get this - welcoming any local winemaker who fancies jumping on board, such is his sense of mission.