Mandrarossa Grillo 2025

Grillo was, for many years, seen as a bit of a workhorse grape variety, but in more recent times quality-oriented producers such as Mandrarossa have shown it's worth taking seriously. It's Sicilian through and through, and here shows off its crisp, fresh side rather nicely. Citrus zest and orchard fruit predominate, with a savoury herbal note sneaking in to add an extra angle, all held together by a good, bright acidity. Precise and taut from start to finish, with a lingering finish to match.

Good enough to enjoy on its own. Pairing with food, try it with grilled fish or seafood, where its citrus and acidity cut through nicely.

Mandrarossa is the flagship brand of Cantine Settesoli, the leading cooperative in southwest Sicily, launched after two decades of soil mapping to match native grapes to their ideal sites. Since 2021 it's had its own dedicated winery, and the focus has shifted more towards single-site wines built around Sicilian varieties like Nero d'Avola, Grillo, Grecanico and dry Zibibbo. Sustainable farming runs through the vineyards, with a growing share now converted to organic, and the winemaking favours a hands-off approach. Their wines show Sicily at its most reliable — good value, and increasingly good quality too.