Giovanni Rosso Roero Arneis 2023

Once on the brink of extinction, Arneis was rescued in the 1970s by a handful of growers who saw its potential. It has since regained favour, though it remains a grape with a capricious streak. This is one that really shows why the effort was worthwhile. Pear, white peach and citrus lead the aromas, with almond and a gentle herbal note underneath. The palate is bright, balanced and refreshingly dry, with a chalky edge that keeps everything taut. The style is pared-back and precise, letting the grape's character speak clearly.

Works well with antipasti, risotto or grilled fish, where its freshness cuts neatly through.

The Rosso family has grown grapes in Serralunga d’Alba since 1890, but it wasn’t until 1995 that their first wine was bottled under the Giovanni Rosso name. Since then, with Davide Rosso at the helm, the estate has become one of Piedmont's most respected producers, particularly for Barolo. Their outlook is rooted in tradition but with a restless edge: in the mid-2010s they pushed beyond Piedmont, acquiring vineyards on the slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily, where volcanic soils add a new chapter to the family story.