Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, Château de Laborde 2021

Gevrey-Chambertin has a reputation for producing some of the weightier wines of the Côte de Nuits, and this one certainly fits the bill - though it does so with effortless balance rather than brute force. Made in small quantities from 40-year-old vines, it opens with a delicate rose petal lift before cranberry and dark fruit take centre stage. A flicker of black pepper cuts through the sweeter spice, while velvety tannins bring just the right amount of polish. The finish is long, smooth, and unmistakably Gevrey - deep, structured, and quietly assured..

Drinking beautifully now, this has the depth for ribeye or venison and the elegance for roast duck or guinea fowl. The silky tannins and spice work a treat with richer, savoury flavours.

The historic and somewhat faded property of Château de Laborde was acquired by Hervé Kerlann and the end of the 1990's. In the subsequent years he's renovated the buildings and transformed the estate to become a leading light in the Côte d'Or. Their nine hectares of vineyards are mainly in Gevrey-Chambertin and all winemaking is done at their state-of-the-art facility at the Château.