Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine Felix 2023

Burgundy's whites are almost always Chardonnay - except when they're not. Occasionally, you'll stumble across the region's other white grape, Aligoté. It might not have the fame or price tag of Chardonnay, but it's well worth discovering. Hervé Félix's take shows exactly why. Made in a fresh, fragrant style, it has crisp acidity with citrus and mineral notes taking centre stage. There's good body too, with a chalky texture that keeps it mouth-watering and deliciously drinkable. It may not be the grape Burgundy is best known for, but don't let that stop you from giving it a try.

Just made for the likes of grilled sea bass with lemon and herbs or steamed cod with ginger and spring onions - its crisp, mineral vibes bring out the best in delicate fish dishes like this. And if you're not in the mood for food, it's a perfect aperitif too, especially poured into a classic Kir.

Hervé Félix’s estate, Domaine Félix et Fils, sits in the northern Burgundian outpost of Saint Bris le Vineux, where his ancestors have been farming since the late 1600s. Not much changed for centuries, but things took a new turn in 1991. Under Hervé's energetic and charismatic leadership, the vineyard area has grown substantially, and he's invested heavily in modern winemaking equipment. Combining his family's traditions with cutting-edge techniques is Hervé's signature style. Sure, there's sometimes an air of organised chaos, but what matters is what's in the bottle - and it rarely misses the mark. A small estate making wines well worth discovering.