Artesa Organic Rioja 2023

This is bright, modern organic Rioja where the emphasis is firmly on fruit: juicy Tempranillo with berry fruit at its core, lifted by red plum, a touch of spice and a savoury, herbal edge. The oak is there as seasoning — six months in barrel giving a subtle smoky accent and a bit of extra sheen to the palate. It all adds up to a wine with flavour and polish enough to suggest it might cost a bit more than it actually does.

A handy all-rounder: fresh enough for simple mid-week suppers, but with enough flavour to stand up to roast lamb, slow-cooked pork or a tray of roast peppers and chorizo.

Ontanon is one of those Rioja bodegas with genuine soul. They've been around for ages, yet retain a sense of artistic curiosity. You'll find traditional, age-worthy Rioja alongside more vibrant, fruit-forward styles. They're not afraid to experiment, like with their white Rioja fermented in amphorae. But there's always a clear thread of classic Rioja character - think spice, vanilla, and a touch of old leather. Add in the striking winery, packed with contemporary art, and you have a place that truly celebrates the best of Rioja, both old and new.