Inici Priorat, Merum Priorati 2022

Alongside Rioja, Priorat is Spain's finest region of production for quality red wines, though it produces a fraction of the volumes of the more famous counterpart. The wines are known for their vigour, concentration and richness and this example made from mainly Garnacha and smaller amounts of Cariñena and Cabernet Sauvignon is no exception. Pronounced aromas of black fruit, vanilla, clove, tar and lifted floral notes leap from the glass. There's real power and body on the palate with luscious, rich dark fruits and complex spice. Signs of maturity are starting to show with savoury notes appearing mid palate followed by lovely full, ripe tannins and hints of leather and spice on the finish.

Impressive stuff, this is great matched with things like shoulder of lamb, or rabbit braised with olives and herbs.

Merum Priorati, a notable Priorat estate was founded in 2004 and is located in the east of the appellation around the pretty village of Porrera in the hills northwest of Tarragona. Although they have over 30 hectares of vines, in the wild, rugged terrains of these parts few thrive and those that do produce only tiny amounts. There isn't what you'd call soil more just a carpet of broken black slate called Licorella. They cultivate five varieties: Garnacha, Cariñena, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Despite all this winemaker Roger Oferill crafts impeccable but not over polished wines which are truly hand-made: fermentation is in small, open top vats with long cuvasion and the wines are intense and seriously complex against a backdrop of bright and vibrant modern fruit.