The Curious Case September 2026 - Wood You or Wooden’t You
Oak, one of the oldest tools in winemaking, can divide opinion. Some love it, some don't and views run either way. Once upon a time you had little choice but to use barrels, or clay vessels, to make wine at all; these days it's entirely optional, so using it should bring something extra rather than mask what's underneath. To illustrate the differences between using barrels or not, we've taken three grapes, Chardonnay, Tempranillo and Chenin Blanc, an oaked and unoaked version of each, and held them up to the spotlight.
For the Chardonnay pair we've picked a barrel fermented South African against a French version from the Ardèche. Both have a ripe stone fruit character, but you'll detect a creamy note in the oaked version. The Chenin Blancs are both South African - one with 12 months in barrel, the other gaining depth by spending time on its lees. And to round off we've headed to Rioja - the home of Tempranillo - to show how a fresh, early drinking wine makes an interesting contrast with the richness of a more aged version.
Barrel ageing delivers a soft nuttiness
Green Flash Sunset Chardonnay
A natural fermentation followed by a few months in barrel adds a soft nutty richness to the classic citrus and stone fruit ripe that South African Chardonnay brings. But the oak is always in a supporting role, it's the fruit that takes centre stage.
Bright Mâconnais style from a Burgundian big hitter
Ardèche Chardonnay, Louis Latour
In this unoaked wine Louis Latour, one of Burgundy's famous names, have brought their expertise to the Ardèche. And, in fact, it's not far from what any good southern Burgundy would be like - clean and crisp with a ripe peachy character.
Warmth and generosity, Rioja's time honoured calling card
Queirón Mi Lugar Vino de Quel Rioja
Barrel aged Tempranillo is in Rioja's DNA so a rich, plush example like this had to go in the case. This is an example of the region's modern approach where the dark fruit is enchanced, not over-shadowed, by the oak.
Juicy red fruit, soft spice - easy-drinking enjoyment
Vega del Rayo Rioja
Rioja was for decades a region steeped in tradition which extended to its winemaking. That's no longer the case as demonstrated here. For sheer enjoyability young and bright Tempranillo is hard to beat and with bright cherries, juicy plums and just a hint of soft spice this is the other side of the coin.
Textural savouriness and minerality - old barrels for a light touch
Wildeberg Terroirs Chenin Blanc
Barrel ageing is often used to bring out roundness and richness, but here's an example of where it adds structure and grip to a savoury, mineral streaked wine. Overall this is leaner than the fuller, oaked Chenin Blancs of the Loire Valley where the time spent in barrel helps emphasise its taut, wiry nature.
Slow fermentation brings many layers
False Bay Slow Chenin Blanc
South Africa is the source of many styles of Chenin Blanc and many an unoaked version is a fresh, bright number that's perfectly pleasant, but not overly memorable. What elevates this above that is the slow fermentation and amount of time spent resting on its lees in tank. This allows it to take on rich, bready aromas and extra layers of flavour on the tongue.
Grapes and oak are great soulmates, but that doesn't mean they always need each other, as these wines show.