In a nutshell: A beautifully silky and generously flavoured Côte de Beaune Burgundy.
The lowdown: Laurent Pillot, who has been running this domaine for a number of years, is keen on keeping yields low and cultivating his vines as organically as possible which is an approach which pays dividends across his range of wines. This, his village level Volnay, is made from 5 parcels of vines, two of which, Ronceret and Brouillards are Premier Cru, but being too small in size he assembles it into the one cuvée. The wine is really expressive and juicily ripe; it has a good weight, first class minerality and sweet oak spice.
When to drink: Elegant and velvety it's well inside its drinking range and will stay on top form until the early 2020s.
The Pillot family have been growing grapes in the Côte de Beaune village of Chassagne-Montrachet since the 19th century. Today the domaine is in the hands of 5th generation owner Laurent Pillot. Over the years the size of their holdings has ebbed and flowed whilst always maintaining a focus on the village of Chassage-Montrachet. The most recent significant addition was when Laurent's wife, Marie-Anne, inherited a portion of her family's lands which brough new vineyards around Pommard into their ownership. Currently their holdings run to nearly 15 hectares across the Côte de Beaune.
These days the estate is cultivated along organic lines with no artificial chemicals being used on the vines, or soils. Laurent's son Adrien is now a part of the operation after having cut his teeth working and gaining experience in other parts of the world from Oregon, to South Africa, New Zealand and Australia and brings with him a dynamism and wealth of new ideas.
Their approach leads to wines which have a characteristic generosity and fullness with plenty of ripe flavours. Their prowess was, not long ago, trumpeted by Decanter
Magazine when they said they were a domaine "that deserves to be better known".