In a nutshell: A rich and minerally Premier Cru white Burgundy from the appellation of Montagny in the Côte Chalonnaise.
The lowdown: The only village in the Côte Chalonnaise to be dedicated entirely to Chardonnay Montagny still produces one of those increasingly elusive things, the good value white Burgundy. Françoise Feuillat-Juillot has managed the whole domaine since 2002 (and owned it from 2004) and makes quality wines without compromise and uses sustainable agricultural methods in the vineyards. The Premier Cru vineyard of Les Coeres is composed of 60 year old vines on south facing slopes and is regarded to be one of the finest sites in the area. The grapes are hand-picked and then fermented and matured in large oak barrels, with maturation lasting up to 10 months before bottling. Rich and complex with a steely minerality running through the core this is an excellent wine. Intense aromas of ripe citrus, white stone fruits and vanilla with patisserie notes lead onto a full and fresh palate with a real richness, honeyed notes coming through, but all balanced by taught, vibrant acidity.
When to drink: Drink now through to 2025+. Try with fish pie and cooked seafood in general, marinated or grilled vegetables, also works well with mild soft or goat cheeses.
The owner of this excellent Côte Chalonnaise estate, Françoise Feuillat-Juillot, who, being the daughter of Michel Juillot a long standing and highly regarded winemaker in the village of Mercurey, grew up amongst the vines and barrels of her family domaine. After studying oenology she joined forces with grower Maurice Bertrand whose estate was situated in Montagny at the the southern end of the Côte Chalonnaise where Chardonnay is king. She continued to run the estate after Maurice's death in 2002 and was eventually able to take ownership a few years later. She now has 14 hectares of wonderfully sited, mainly old vines, spread amongst 13 different premier crus in the area. She practices a very strict and meticulous form of sustainable viticulture, works the soils mechanically and all grapes are picked by hand. This approach has certainy paid dividends because her wines are now regarded as some of the best of the appellation.